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|Title: ||Storm Wave Climatology: A Study of the Magnitude and Frequency of Geomorphic Process|
|Authors: ||Hale, Peter B.,|
|Issue Date: ||1980|
|Publisher: ||Geological Survey of Canada|
|Citation: ||Geological Survey of Canada, Paper 80-10, p. 73-88, 1980|
|Abstract: ||This paper provides a framework for detailed lime series analysis of storm events and an assessment of their relative importance in controlling morphological changes in the coastal zone. A wave-hindcast procedure (S-M-B) is used to generate theoretical wave heights, periods and cumulative Wave energies for specific, storm events based on hourly wind data for Kouchibouguac Bay in the southern Gulf of St. Lawrence. The synthetic wave climatology provides: (a) measures of storm intensity, by maximum significant wave height, period or cumulative wave energy for the duration 0( the storm, (b) return periods for events of differing magnitude, and (c) a ranking scheme for the relative importance of storm events in term' of their geomorphological impact in the coastal zone.
Kouchibouguac Bay is a low-energy. storm-wave dominated environment, receiving 19 storms per ice-free year on average but these represent only 5.5 per cent of the total time. The dominant storm-wave direction is northeasterly for all return periods and the stormiest month, are May followed by April and December. The largest most probable annual wave event produces significant wave height of 1.3 m and a total stormwave energy of 13344.5 x 103 J m -1 crest width from the northeast. The largest predicted wave has a return period of 34 years, a significant height of 2.6 m (maximum of 4.7 m) and a period of 7 s; extrapolation to the 100-year event suggests a maximum wave height of 5.6 m.
Morphological response in Kouchibouguac Bay is well-correlated with wave intensity: (a) ripchannel excavation in the inner bar system occurs with predicted waves 60-80 cm high and a return period les.' than ole month; (b) the outer crescentic bar system responds extensively to the most probable annual maximum (significant height of 1.2 m); (c) barrier washover correlates with this latter event also; (d) barrier breaching occurs under storm conditions with return periods of between 4 and 12 years but the location is controlled by antecedent morphology.|
|Appears in Collections:||Environmental Science|
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